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For most of us, Maldives’ allure is its white sandy beaches and the surrounding warm blue ocean. The oft-overlooked aspect, however, is its unique culture.
The country’s above sea-level life is as vibrant as the world that inhabits under its waters. The Maldives harbors an inimitable landscape, not just in context to its neighbors but also amongst the islands it encompasses into one nation.
To get a slice of what the Maldives truly stands for, head to an inhabited island. Away from the neatly presented extravagances of the resort islands, public islands give tourists a rare glimpse into the authentic Maldivian way of life.
A recent addition to the list of islands that are now open for tourists is Kelaa.
About Kelaa
Serving as a British RAF base until the end of the Second World War, Kelaa today is a tranquil hideaway, emerging slowly as a haven for budget travelers in the Maldives.
Situated in the Haa Alif Atoll, it is one of the northernmost islands of the country. Covering an area of about 2sq. Km, Kelaa is 3km in length and 1.04km at its widest point. A large part of Kelaa consists of mangrove swamps, and it is also a biosphere reserve.
A long stretch of white sandy beach cocoons the island on one side, while the other amazes visitors with its rocky coral shore. A young and growing wetland to the south adds a distinct character to its terrain. The word Kelaa translates to sandalwood, a name as exclusive as this island’s topography.
Kelaa boasts a long pristine beach and untouched green cover. A perfect place to, therefore, indulge in rejuvenating nature therapy. The sandy coastline here has a total length of 7.5kms, resulting in ample space, including idyllic secluded spots, by the seafront for everyone.
Having opened for tourists in 2015, Kelaa continues to retain its traditional charm. Home to about 1600 inhabitants, its attractiveness is as much in its friendly people as its unique geography.
Moreover, the locals on the island occupy only one-third of the entire area. Most of the population lives in the north. Here, you’ll find the harbor and a few shops selling groceries and other essential items.
The island has a school, a football ground, a health center, and an ATM. It is, however, advisable that you carry enough Rufiyaa or USD as most local transactions take place in cash. While cards have acceptance in guesthouses, shops prefer money in the local currency.
How to reach Kelaa
A distance of about 300Kms from Malé might seem like a laborious journey to get to Kelaa, but this distance is just a number. Especially when your destination is nothing short of heaven on earth!
An efficient and convenient mode to reach Kelaa is by combining air and boat travel. A 45-minute direct flight from Velana International Airport takes you to Hanimaadhoo Airport. These flights run daily. From here, speedboats to Kelaa jetty take 30 minutes. The guesthouses are your best bet for booking air as well as boat tickets.
A budget, albeit adventurous, option is via an 18-hour food and passenger ferry from Malé. The Arafa Express runs once a week, making short stops along the way at a few islands before reaching Kelaa. The schedule for the ferry releases closer to the date, so keep a close watch. Or else, ask your guesthouse to help with the booking.
Transportation around Kelaa
Like most islands in the archipelago, it’s easy to traverse around Kelaa on foot. The island’s compact size and considerable green cover make this activity feasible and pleasant. The tropical climate, however, demands that one is hydrated and sufficiently protected from the sun.
Furthermore, mosquitoes are an issue due to the island’s dense vegetation and fruits farms (watermelon, pumpkin). Make sure you add mosquito repellants to your packing list for the Maldives when planning a visit to Kelaa.
While the residents primarily use mopeds to commute, bicycles are the best option for tourists. Most guesthouses provide these free of cost to their guests. Due to its rather belated entry into the tourist circuit, the island is generally devoid of tourist traffic at present.
Things to do in Kelaa
The characteristic topography that encapsulates the tropics plays a significant role in attracting visitors to Kelaa. Once here, they find many activities to keep them occupied, including various motorized and non-motorized watersports.
Beach time
The beach on the island is long and offers unobtrusive sections for travelers. The Bikini Beach earmarked for tourists has sun loungers and beach umbrellas. It provides the perfect spot to let hours roll past without much happening.
Furthermore, the crescent-shaped shore lets you witness romantic sunsets, while the shallow and turquoise-colored lagoon is the best place in Kelaa for young ones to swim safely.
If lucky, you might even see the bioluminescent planktons after sundown here. It’s a rare and magical phenomenon that causes the ocean’s surface to sparkle in the darkness of the night.
Snorkeling
An island getaway remains a bland affair if you don’t explore the surrounding reefs. The house reef at Kelaa guarantees a colorful array of fish and corals that captivate one’s attention. Kissing the east side of the island, the reef lies only 100m from the beach. It is common to spot sharks, turtles, and mantas here.
Owing to strong currents, mornings are the best time for snorkeling. It’s when the waters are calm. For a more immersive swim, book a snorkeling excursion through your guesthouse. Local operators provide guided snorkeling sessions, helping you navigate the currents and explore undersea life securely.
Discovering Maldives’ history
An island bearing marks of Maldives’ past lies a mere 30-minute speedboat ride away from Kelaa. Utheemu is the birthplace of Sultan Mohamed Thakurufaanu, the much-loved hero in the country’s history. He is famous for having led an uprising against the Portuguese, forcing them to abandon their quest for power in the Maldives.
It took the Sultan eight years to finally gain the islands back from the Portuguese. After which, he served his people by being a just and caring ruler until he died in 1585. The Utheemu Ganduvaru is a palace museum that is an ode to this man’s courage.
Moreover, on Kelaa itself, there is a mosque dating back to the reign of Sultan Mohamed Ibn Ali (AD 1692-1701). He is the king credited with establishing the Islamic penal code.
Scuba diving
The Haa Alif Atoll sees relatively less traffic for diving excursions, primarily due to the lack of dive schools in the region. Although Kelaa doesn’t have a dive school, most guesthouses can arrange a diving tour through the nearest resort. You will need prior booking for such an excursion.
Diving in the atoll is easy owing to wider channels and shallow depths. Some of the popular dive sites in the Haa Alif Atoll are:
Aquarium – A relaxed and easy dive, Aquarium is the perfect spot for diving beginners. One can observe a variety of fish within the depth of 10m. Further down, up to 30m, a wide variety of marine life, such as mantas, snappers, butterflyfish, and sweepers, are visible. There is also a shark cleaning station near this site.
Heaven & Hell – Suitable for advanced divers only, Heaven and Hell is among the most popular dive sites in Kelaa. Beginning at 18m, the thila is known primarily for its large overhangs. Covered with beautiful corals, a variety of marine life often swims past here. One can usually spot mantas, snapper, turtles, and cleaner shrimps when diving at this location.
Mathi Faru – Offering an exciting dive for beginners and experienced divers, Mathi Faru starts at 6m. The steep wall of the reef then goes down to 30m. The wall, peppered with sponges and small corals, is a visual delight. This dive spot is home to yellow-headed morays, lionfish, and cleaner shrimps. Night diving is a popular activity at Mathi Faru.
Resort days
Tourists can experience the luxuries of a retreat by booking a resort day in the Maldives. A day pass offers access to the many facilities at the retreat, usually between 0900hrs – 1700hrs.
Two resorts around Kelaa where one can indulge are Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa and JA Manafaru. For guests staying on inhabited islands, it is the perfect occasion to pamper themselves.
Places to eat in Kelaa
Most guesthouses in Kelaa have restaurants that serve different cuisines. If one feels like stepping out, there are a couple more good food joints on the island. Like the rest of the public islands, no alcohol is available anywhere on Kelaa.
Michoobs La Director Café
A popular restaurant in Kelaa, both locals and tourists love to eat at Michoobs. Serving traditional café food from pasta and cakes to coffee and snacks, the quaint setting of the eatery is perfect for a filling meal.
Michoobs also serves the famous Maldivian short eats called Hedhikaa throughout the day. The refreshing drinks on offer give perfect company to the plates of delectable food that come out of the kitchen. Michoobs is ideal for those sweet cravings too! The variety of pastries on display will leave you spoilt for choice.
Sosun Café
Sosun is a terrace café in Kelaa offering all-day meals. Among their most popular items are coffee and snacks. They serve European, Indian and Maldivian dishes too. The eatery’s pizzas and cakes are forever a hot favorite with the diners. The beverage menu at Sosun is extensive and includes a mix of must-have drinks in the Maldives as well as a colorful array of thirst quenchers.
Best hotels and guesthouses in Kelaa
Only recently was Kelaa granted permission to host tourists. As a result, the growth of tourism infrastructure is less than some of the more popular inhabited islands like Maafushi. For travelers on the lookout for hidden gems in the Maldives, this means a quieter island and empty beaches!
Moreover, because tourism is still developing on the island, everyone chips in to make your stay as comfortable as possible. This includes guesthouses in Kelaa, adding to the enjoyment factor. From offering indoor games to organizing excursions like beach barbeques and romantic dinners, they are more than eager to keep guests busy and happy. You’ll also find souvenir shops in some of the local guesthouses in Kelaa.
Summer Home Kelaa
A newer addition to the island’s accommodation profile, Summer Home Kelaa is a family-run guesthouse. It offers three AC rooms with attached bathrooms, furnished with all basic amenities. It also has larger family rooms for rent. Summer Home has a small area outside that acts as a lovely place to relax when you don’t feel like stepping out. For adventurous souls, the staff is always at hand to arrange excursions like a dolphin-watching tour or a diving expedition.
Summer Home offers free wi-fi in bedrooms and public areas. Their in-house restaurant serves delicious freshly-made breakfast and can prepare other meals on request. Bike rentals are available for all guests.
Holiday Home Kelaa
Holiday Home Kelaa has the perfect setting for a romantic holiday, with some rooms granting dramatic sunset views. Of the five rooms here, two have a porch, ideal for lounging, and one has a terrace with views across the ocean. It is an oasis of green for lazy days when all you want to do is soak in the island vibe.
The onsite restaurant of Holiday Home takes care of all your meals. Furthermore, the guesthouse has a 24-hour front desk that can arrange tours, airport transfers and help with bicycle rentals. The well-furnished rooms at this pleasant guesthouse in Kelaa offer all modern comforts, including free wi-fi and cable TV.
Beach Home Kelaa
Located a mere 2-minute walk from the seaside, Beach Home Kelaa is convenient for tourists wishing to be in the center of all the action. This guesthouse in Kelaa offers an almost private beach area with wi-fi access in public spaces. All six rooms have air-conditioning and come with flat-screen cable TV access. While all the bedrooms have modern furnishings, some have an additional feature of a balcony.
The 24-hour concierge at Beach Home can help with luggage storage and excursion booking facilities. The restaurant serves simple yet flavourful meals. They can also arrange barbeque evenings on the beach. The terrace at this Kelaa guesthouse offers panoramic views across the area. It is a pleasant spot for a tranquil and calm evening after a long day of exploring the island and its many wonders.
Tropical Sands Kelaa
A quaint little guesthouse in Kelaa, Tropical Sands has a total of eight well-furnished rooms. Located a mere minute away from one of the best beaches in the Maldives, a stay at Tropical Sands places you next to the most revered spot in the entire archipelago.
Additionally, the facilities available at the guesthouse include an open lounge with gym equipment, spacious en-suite bedrooms, lush vegetation in the surroundings, and an in-house restaurant that whips up a lip-smacking breakfast every day.
